Ceviche: Debated Ancestry

Ceviche, seviche or cebiche is a technique of marinating raw seafood in citrus, traditionally fresh lime juice. As with all great food, it is exalted simplicity and highly dependent on the ingredients. The fish du jour is slightly “cooked” by the citric acid, which does not involve heat, but does impart subtle flavor. The citric acid [...]

Le Tour + Corsica

Please bear with my exuberance.   Tomorrow is the grand départ of this year’s ever epic Tour de France, the 100th version of the event.  This year the riders — those that remain from the initial 198 – will course over 24 stages and 3,404 kilometers or a tad over 2,115 miles.  (I will discuss their bizarre calorie [...]

Imperiled Mussels

In ancient Greece, electoral votes were cast by scratching the names of candidates inside mussel shells. Centuries later, in one of the earliest (14th century) French cookbook transcripts, Le Viander de Taillevent, a mussel recipe appears—with mint of all things. The reknowned Taillevent rose from meager beginnings as a young kitchen hand by the common [...]

Spuds Redux — Aligote

While I am on the topic… Potatoes are starchy, tuberous herbaceous perennials from the Solanum tuberosum of the Solanaceae family. Peru has been recognized as the birthplace of this highly nutritious culinary staple which has been cultivated for as many as 10,000 years. The potato was introduced to Europe in the 16th century and spread [...]

Pommes Anna (Potatoes Anna)

Any man who can drive safely while kissing a pretty girl is simply not giving the kiss the attention it deserves. ~Albert Einstein Louis-Napoléon Bonaparte (Napoléon III), nephew of Napoléon I, was ruler of the imperial Second French Empire. He was the last monarch of France, ruling as emperor from the day he ascended to [...]

Food Memory (& The Hippocampi)

Memory is the diary we all carry about with us. ~Oscar Wilde Another long held food hypothesis thankfully proven lab sound:  memory influences eating and food choices. Researchers at the University of Bristol explored the nexus between satiety and memory, and their findings were published in a recent issue of the journal PLoS (Public Library [...]

Aperçu of An Egg

Recently, from small farmers to urbanites and in between, there has been a marked upsurge in local egg coops. Backyard hatcheries are sprouting up across the country. Home-raised fresh eggs from well fed and exercised hens with rich, dark yolks and intense flavors and textures are in vogue. Some of this movement is cuisine based, [...]

Crabs

You cannot teach a crab to walk straight. ~Aristophanes Another crustacean deity. True crabs are decapod crustaceans of the order Brachyura. Ranging in girth from a few millimeters wide to spans over 12 feet, crabs are generally covered with a hard exoskeleton, and display a single pair of chelae (claws), dactyls (movable fingers) and four [...]

How Divine! Stompin’ with Savoy Spinach

While there are many variations of spinach, generally speaking, there are four main types: savoy, semi-savoy, flat leaf, and baby. Savoy spinach has crinkly, dark green curly leaves. Flatleaf or smooth leaf spinach is unwrinkled and have spade-shaped leaves that are easier to clean than the curly types. The stalks are usually very narrow and [...]

Asparagi Alla Milanese (Asparagus Milanese)

…my greatest pleasure was the asparagus, bathed in ultramarine and pink and whose spears, delicately brushed in mauve and azure, fade imperceptibly to the base of the stalk—still soiled with the earth of their bed—through iridescences that are not of this world. ~Marcel Proust Given its varied faces and hues along with year round availability, asparagus is [...]